Black Powder Smith

[mtang45]

I've been analyzing an ASM 1860 Army that I inherited. The more I check it out, the more that I find that is not right. I'm definitely a BP amateur and rather than potentially making it worse, I'd rather send it off to a smith who knows what they are doing. Any recommendations?

 

[Jitterbug]

This outfit seems to enjoy a good reputation with the CAS crowd for modifications/improvements. I have no personal experience with them.

http://www.goonsgunworks.com/

I’ll concede that the name isn’t exactly confidence inspiring...

I don’t know if he does diagnosis/repair, or only does “tuning.” If he can’t help you, he probably knows who can.

With the relatively low prices of the Italian repros, it might seem hard to justify the cost… but a smooth-running revolver is a thing of exceptional beauty!

 

[Jitterbug]

Plan B: “No guts, No glory!”

 

[Ka'imiloa]

The book above is a classic and even tho its soft cover the cheapest place to get a used books is often abebooks.com. There is a single copy listed there, for $48.65. And in it are only 9 pages devoted to tuning a BP revolver.
If you as an amateur have already found a bunch of problems, it will cost you waaaaay more than the your gun is worth to have it gunsmithed, and few gunsmiths know much if anything about BP revolvers.
The postage, plus time spent and just one hour of gunsmith time will exceed that value. It is probably about $150 at a major gunshow, perhaps $175 with today's inflation (ASM is not a good brand compared to Pietta or Uberti, for this same pistol). On the bright side, searching at Youtube online will likely bring up some how-to videos for you.
If your pistol has a brass frame, just hang it on the wall, because there is no telling what loading and shooting abuse it has suffered in the past two or three decades or so. If steel frame, and the cylinder isn't cracked or bulged, it should be safe to shoot with moderate loads of 3F BP or Pyrodex P. (such as 20 gr. powder by volume, 10 gr. Creme of Wheat filler above that, and a lead ball slightly larger than the cylinder's bore (like .005" larger diameter) such that pressing the ball into a cylinder shaves off a slim bit of lead. Then apply some thick lube atop the loaded ball to keep down barrel fouling. (Note that "chain fires" do NOT occur from flame getting around a properly loaded ball or bullet in a revolver cylinder. They occur from loose caps falling off the nipples. So crimp the caps slighly with your thumbnail before pressing them down well on the nipples.)
As long as the cylinder is turning normally with cocking the hammer, and then locking up each time too, it isn't going to matter if your cylinders match up perfectly with the barrel's bore. With an ordinary pure lead ball, it will have minimal
effect on pressure. You will just lose some accuracy.
My strong advice: keep this revolver as a wallhanger, or plinking shooter if you like. But if you want a good 1860 Army C&B revolver, get a new or used one by Pietta or Uberti. Or better yet, get a new or used 1858 Remington .44., which has a stronger frame and better sighting.

Aloha, Ka'imiloa

 

[mtang45]

The book above is a classic and even tho its soft cover the cheapest place to get a used books is often abebooks.com. There is a single copy listed there, for $48.65. And in it are only 9 pages devoted to tuning a BP revolver.
If you as an amateur have already found a bunch of problems, it will cost you waaaaay more than the your gun is worth to have it gunsmithed, and few gunsmiths know much if anything about BP revolvers.
The postage, plus time spent and just one hour of gunsmith time will exceed that value. It is probably about $150 at a major gunshow, perhaps $175 with today's inflation (ASM is not a good brand compared to Pietta or Uberti, for this same pistol). On the bright side, searching at Youtube online will likely bring up some how-to videos for you.
If your pistol has a brass frame, just hang it on the wall, because there is no telling what loading and shooting abuse it has suffered in the past two or three decades or so. If steel frame, and the cylinder isn't cracked or bulged, it should be safe to shoot with moderate loads of 3F BP or Pyrodex P. (such as 20 gr. powder by volume, 10 gr. Creme of Wheat filler above that, and a lead ball slightly larger than the cylinder's bore (like .005" larger diameter) such that pressing the ball into a cylinder shaves off a slim bit of lead. Then apply some thick lube atop the loaded ball to keep down barrel fouling. (Note that "chain fires" do NOT occur from flame getting around a properly loaded ball or bullet in a revolver cylinder. They occur from loose caps falling off the nipples. So crimp the caps slighly with your thumbnail before pressing them down well on the nipples.)
As long as the cylinder is turning normally with cocking the hammer, and then locking up each time too, it isn't going to matter if your cylinders match up perfectly with the barrel's bore. With an ordinary pure lead ball, it will have minimal
effect on pressure. You will just lose some accuracy.
My strong advice: keep this revolver as a wallhanger, or plinking shooter if you like. But if you want a good 1860 Army C&B revolver, get a new or used one by Pietta or Uberti. Or better yet, get a new or used 1858 Remington .44., which has a stronger frame and better sighting.

Aloha, Ka'imiloa

Thanks for the advice and suggestions. As a newb, any knowledge gained regarding black powder pistols/rifles from those knowledgeable of the game is very much appreciated.