Witness Marks On Ramrods

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I posted this here, although it applies to traditional caplocks, flintlocks, and inlines. A double charged or short started load can of course blow up these guns.

However, with the much higher pressures of smokeless, a catastrophic failure from either of these poses more risk of harm.

So when working up loads what do you use as a temporary witness mark?

Also what do you use as a permanent mark?

Permanent marks to me are problematic as if we tinker with new loads it becomes moot.

I realize that some don’t use witness marks and often I don’t as well.

I tried tape and didn’t like it.

Right now I use White Out. It does chip off but seems to work ok.

Ideas??
 
I posted this here, although it applies to traditional caplocks, flintlocks, and inlines. A double charged or short started load can of course blow up these guns.

However, with the much higher pressures of smokeless, a catastrophic failure from either of these poses more risk of harm.

So when working up loads what do you use as a temporary witness mark?

Also what do you use as a permanent mark?

Permanent marks to me are problematic as if we tinker with new loads it becomes moot.

I realize that some don’t use witness marks and often I don’t as well.

I tried tape and didn’t like it.

Right now I use White Out. It does chip off but seems to work ok.

Ideas??
A piece of dowel that you make as you work up loads /ex on your first load just cut off a piece of the dowel that is the same length as the amount of ramrod that is sticking out of the barrel and you can tape a piece of paper to the dowel with load info on it with clear tape and then no mix ups
 
A piece of dowel that you make as you work up loads /ex on your first load just cut off a piece of the dowel that is the same length as the amount of ramrod that is sticking out of the barrel and you can tape a piece of paper to the dowel with load info on it with clear tape and then no mix ups
Dang!!
That is a great idea!!
Never entered my mind
 
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I find that using tape works the best for me. I shoot way too many different charges, bullets and propellants to permanently mark the rod.
Then again, there's rather I'm using a brake or not, which makes a difference.
 
Witness marks in a smokeless M/L is a fools errand.

A witness mark for ONE powder won't be an issue. As you're only adjusting up or down a grain or two to find your optimum load. The powder column won't rise or fall that much. I Sharpie mark or file mark is probably a few grains of power in width.

But..... If you change powders, you're screwed. Some powders are very fine/less powder column height. Some powders a very bulky/taller powder column height. I suppose you could mark and label two/three/four different ramrods, but I think that's like sending an engraved invitation to Mr. Murphy.

Find your load, stick with that load, mark your ramrod and you're set.
 
Witness marks in a smokeless M/L is a fools errand.
The witness mark is really only telling you if the bullet isn’t seated on the powder or if you’ve doubled something (powder, bullet or entire load) It doesn’t have to be accurate within a grain or two. It just has to tell you if you’re 1/2” to 3” off.

Tape or sharpie during load testing, development and hunting is the only way to safely do it. And even more importantly - complete CONCENTRATION when loading.
 
I posted this here, although it applies to traditional caplocks, flintlocks, and inlines. A double charged or short started load can of course blow up these guns.

However, with the much higher pressures of smokeless, a catastrophic failure from either of these poses more risk of harm.

So when working up loads what do you use as a temporary witness mark?

Also what do you use as a permanent mark?

Permanent marks to me are problematic as if we tinker with new loads it becomes moot.

I realize that some don’t use witness marks and often I don’t as well.

I tried tape and didn’t like it.

Right now I use White Out. It does chip off but seems to work ok.

Ideas??
Our club requires at least an empty chamber mark. I like stainless steel bench rods. I have arthritis in my hands and the extra weight helps with loading. A black Sharpie works for both an empty and charged mark. I use alcohol to wipe between shots so a little of that on a cleaning patch makes for a good eraser. On black synthetic rods, we use a Silver Sharpie. The same alcohol will remove it also. For wooden rods, I recommend blue painter's tape. It's easy to remove and doesn't compromise the rod's integrity or leave a permanent line.

Walt
 

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